Gold vs Platinum: How to Choose For Your Ring

Durability

There are two factors in precious metal durability:

• Hardness: how it resists scratches, dents, and surface wear.

• Malleability: how easy it can be bent and shaped. More malleable = less brittle/less prone to breaking but more prone to bending.

Because gold is mixed with other alloys, it’s harder than platinum, meaning platinum jewelry becomes scratched more easily than gold jewelry.

A good example we always use: if you look at many vintage engagement rings, they’re made in platinum and typically have lots of lovely engraving work. That detailed engraving work is easier to do in platinum vs gold.

Gold is also more malleable than platinum, meaning it’s easier for jewelers to bend and work with. So, it costs less for the jeweler to set stones in gold because it takes less time. Part of the small premium you pay for platinum includes the added time to set the stones in platinum rings, and sometimes the different tools needed for working in platinum.

White gold is less prone to bending, making it slightly more secure for setting gemstones – that’s why it’s generally our preferred precious metal to work with.

If your setting has lots of small diamonds or delicate pave work, we recommend setting it in White Gold vs. Platinum because white gold is better for securing those small stones.

A platinum setting is more appropriate for a ring with one large center diamond or a design with lots of detailed engraving work. As we mentioned above, engraving looks stunning in a platinum engagement ring.

Can’t decide? Mix and match! It’s very common to have a yellow gold shank (band) on a ring and a platinum head (top part that holds the diamond) – essentially a two-tone setting! Whether you love that look, or just can’t choose, that’s a fun way to go.

The moral of the story: both metals are very durable in different ways. Either is a safe, secure, and long-lasting choice for a fine jewelry setting or engagement ring.