“As you know, Thom likes to inform a tale… It can be going to be a long story — and you know he loooves his lengthy tales…”
That’s what Gwendoline Christie, dressed in a duchess silk satin embroidered dressing gown, informed the viewers collected at the Grand Palais for Thom Browne’s Spring 2023 present Monday. Apart from, on the runway, she was “Charming,” and she was environment the stage for the famously theatrical designer’s rendition of a typical tale: that of Cinderella. (The seven-foot sparkling “glass” heel at the close of the runway should’ve been a giveaway.)
The selection opens with a collection of silk taffeta opera coats in an array of colors, each individual bearing a varsity number across the back. Then, we meet up with our “Cindy”: Emmy-nominated actor Michaela Jaé Rodriguez, sporting white.
Above the course of the clearly show, we also noticed her stepmother and stepsisters (in half-draped silk taffeta polka-dot dresses and punky hair), their cat (in a satin mini skirt and duchess jacket with yarn-ball embroidery), the mice (in off-the-shoulder, bow-decked mini attire), the fairy godmother and her entourage (in hand-knit jackets and pleated poodle skirts).
Like all of the brand’s function, Thom Browne’s version of this fairy tale is rooted in sharp tailoring and precision, juxtaposed with imaginative details and a playfulness that elevates outfits into storytelling. The Spring 2023 appears to be like are actually and figuratively layered: The more you stare, the additional you find — like how underwear peeks out from the trousers in the again or how some models ended up carrying smocked tulle bodysuits beneath.
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But again to the story! Cindy, in a gold-embroidered opera coat with navy satin tails, dances her way up the runway to Charming, prior to stepping within the giant shoe. There, she transforms “into the most legitimate version of herself,” the brand clarifies in the demonstrate notes: donning a cropped white shirt, gray trousers and Thom Browne-branded underwear.
And off she goes, in a pink tulle Cadillac carriage, as the relaxation of the characters dance alongside one another, and as Christie’s Charming reminds us: “In Thom Browne’s planet, all girls and all boys suit inside the shoe.”
See the full Thom Browne Spring 2023 assortment in the gallery beneath.