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On just about everybody’s list of what constitutes a good “capsule wardrobe” – a collection of interchangeable, basic pieces that will serve you forever – there is one that is consistently mentioned:
“Every wardrobe needs a white tailored button-down blouse.”
Well, maybe…
Choose Color First
Let’s start with the color (which is my obsession since my mentor, John Kitchener, is right now reviewing my upcoming color course.) Then we’ll get into the style of a “crisp white tailored blouse.”
First of all, there are innumerable shades of white. For some of us, (including those who like me are mostly autumn or Earthy Rich color type) the shade of white that is typically shown as an example can completely wash us out. That’s because it is most often a clear, and cool white.
Ralph Lauren Crepe deChine silk ivory blouse $245
Someone with a warm, autumn-y color palette typically needs a more ivory shade. Anything much brighter or cooler can make them look sallow.
BOSS Bashinah white cotton blouse $198
But the bright and clear family of white shades will look spectacular on someone who has mostly winter – or Striking Contrast – coloring. The brightness of those cooler whites matches the intensity of color contrast in their own coloring. Those intense whites will never overwhelm them.
For many spring – or Lively Bright – color types, those same cool whites often can work for them as well. The reason for this is that many spring palettes incorporate both warm and cool colors. Also, those who have primarily Spring color harmonies often have a lot of brightness in their skin that can handle the reflectiveness of a brighter white.
HotTouch Women’s Basic Button Down Cotton blouse $26
Now, summer types – Subtle Blended – might be the most challenged when it comes to finding their best whites. The soft, gentle colors of this palette lend themselves to, well, subtlety. Their whites tend to be in the oyster range. That means they are slightly grayed down.
Still, you will see people of all color combinations wearing whites that defy these principles and still look great. Sometimes it’s because they just adjust their makeup a bit to make that shade of white work. But more often it has to do with the fact that they have a secondary seasonal influence that allows for a brighter white.
Style of Blouse
As for the blouse design itself, a fairly fitted button-down blouse is primarily Classic in style. Because Classic sits in the middle – the balance point – of the seven style types (Dramatic, Natural, High Spirited, Classic, Romantic, Youthful, Angelic) we could say that it might work for anyone. (I always have to add the caveat that if you are an extremely Natural bohemian type, you might not find anything in your wardrobe to go with a white button-down blouse…unless maybe if you roll up the sleeves, unbutton the top three buttons, and wear an armload of bracelets.)
So, let’s look at a Classic style white blouse, and then some of the variations on it for the other style types. Some of these cross-over a couple of styles which I will indicate. For those shown here that are not cotton or another natural textile, I indicate the composition.
Classic:
The oxford cloth white button down blouse is an example of a purely Classic version of this style. Look for a simple, fairly fitted (not oversized or very slim) silhouette.
Polo Ralph Lauren Oxford Cotton Blouse $125
Lands’ End supima cotton blouse $55
J Crew Oxford cloth button down blouse $39.50
Dramatic:
Style White Blouses: Look for exaggeration or a stand-out feature in style or features: collar, sleeves, cuffs, or length.
Misook Mandarin Collar Shirt $218
ASTR the Label Sienna Cotton Cutout shirt $46.80
ALC Madison Top $177
All Saints Evie Cotton Shirt $114 (Dramatic and Natural)
Natural:
Look for a looser fit in general, a less crisp textile, patch pockets, or a roll sleeve with tabs. Avoid a silhouette with darts.
Lauren by Ralph Lauren Relaxed Roll Sleeve cotton shirt $89.50
Michael Stars Gracie Linen Button Up Shirt $158
Rails Ellis Long Sleeve Gauze Shirt $168
Cotton On Women’s Denim Oversized long sleeve shirt $59.99
Eileen Fisher Classic Collar Easy Shirt $148
High Spirited:
Look for something cropped, swing-shaped, oversized or that has an oversized feature, or that is costume-y looking but not “serious.” (A more serious costume look would lean toward Dramatic.)
Max Mara Sylvie Cotton Shirt $290
Karl Lagerfeld Ruffled Cotton Shirt $299
Eileen Fisher Cropped Cotton Blouse $148
Karl Lagerfeld Paris $62 Polyester
Treasure and Bond Oversize Cotton Button Up Swing Top $45
Romantic:
Look for darts, close body fitted shapes, cinched sleeves, waists and cuffs. If you want to go beyond cotton look for softer textiles like silk charmeuse, and look at the back as well for pleated seams.
French Connection Conscious Rhodes Pleated Cotton Blouse $46.80
Frame Victorian Silk Blouse $398 Nordstrom
Back view
Top Shop pleated waist poplin cotton shirt $37.20
Vince Camuto Open cuff Bishop sleeve blouse $35.53 (polyester) (Romantic and Angelic)
Mango Women’s Fitted Cotton Shirt $69.99
Youthful:
Youthful style implies roundness. So, opt for rounded collars, round button details (like pearls), ruffles, but look for crisp cotton textiles are they are also a signature of Youthful.
Vera Moda Beante Ruffle Accent cotton $49
Sandy Liang, Wenbly Lace Trim Cotton $395
On 34th Cotton ruffled collar blouse Macy’s $27.72
Alex Mill Easy Ruffled Shirt $108.75
Angelic:
By nature, Angelic is ethereal, so look for details that express another era, as if from a different time, atypical collars, Bishop or Bell shaped sleeves and cuffs, and elongation, as if angels were rising.
Allsaints Cotton Mae Shirt $114
Vince Raw Edge, Oversized Long Sleeve $245 (85% Cotton 14% Silk)
ALC Monica French Cuffs Blouse $295 (Leans a little Romantic too)
ALC Monica Long Sleeve cotton blouse $295 (Collar leans a little Youthful)
Zadig & Voltaire Thebe Cotton Shirt $184
How to Wear a White Blouse
Skirts: Designer Carolina Herrera wore a simple white buttoned down blouse with a floor length silk shantung full skirt. It was a spectacular look and incorporated a little Romance and Drama due to the skirt’s textile, shape, and length. This type of blouse is a natural for pairing with knee length or longer skirts – midis, and maxis.
Pants – Jeans definitely look great with a white tailored blouse. Also, a simple white button down blouse also works well with slouchy trousers, shorts, and even Bermudas, which are back in fashion this spring and summer.
Coats – A simple white blouse with a Blazer, trench coat, or other outerwear turns any coat into a more classic look. But, when wearing a blouse with a pointed collar, make sure that the lapels of the blouse don’t conflict with the lapels of the jacket or coat in terms of size and shape. With trench coats, wear the blouse lapels under those of the coat.
Sweaters: This blouse will work nicely with almost any button down cardigan, especially if the cardigan has no collar of its own, and can also be worn under pullovers (or “jumpers” as they are called in Europe.) Just be careful not to mix this type of blouse with a sweater that has its own fussy or stand-out details such as ruffles or exaggerated puffy sleeves. Also, pairing it with a wrap cardigan can be tricky. It might work, but a wrap top often has a Romantic quality about it, and the button down blouse is very tailored. It can be a confusing message and hard to style so that the look is coherent and not conflicting.
So, yes – a white tailored blouse is something that can go with almost any type of outfit. Just pay attention to the shade of white and the textile and details in order to make it an expression of the real you.
And btw – if any of you out there find a long sleeve, petite ecru cotton button-down blouse anywhere, let me know! I’m still on the hunt!
